Guernsey Garden

Traditionally, two things dominated the life of a typical islander – fishing and gardening. But these were much more than random hobbies: together, they fed local families for hundreds of years.

Grapes were Guernsey’s first commercial crop. Exports began in 1830, rising to 2,541 tons per year in 1915. The yield declined from the 1920’s onwards, falling to a meagre 10 tons per annum in 1971.

Tomatoes were first grown in Guernsey in 1865, as a catch crop. They finally eclipsed grapes and went on to cover 1,000 acres of the island in the late 1950’s. However, the first of the bright red fruit were not well received on the stalls of St Peter Port, remaining unsold as people suspected that they were poisonous.

The kitchen garden was a central part of daily life and a family would spend its spare hours tending the vegetable patch. In The Book of Ebenezer Le Page, author GB Edwards vividly recreates everyday life during the first half of the twentieth century. This touching monologue explains how self-sufficiency and respect for nature helped shape islanders independent spirit. Sundays were spent working the soil, nurturing the fruit, vegetables and flowers that that sustained body and mind. Guernsey people shared a stubborn pride in their island home – after all, she never let them go hungry.

During the long years of occupation in WWII, islanders were suddenly confronted with food shortages. These became acute after the allies recaptured France, turning the Channel Islands into a besieged garrison. More than ever, islanders resorted to their plots to sustain life. Hard work, resourceful recipes and wild culinary improvisations saved the day.

Today, the islands still produce an amazing variety of high quality fruit and vegetables. Guernsey grapes, strawberries and melons are particularly good and no salad can ever be complete without local peppers and tomatoes. For the perfect accompaniment to seafood, choose Guernsey beans, herbs and courgettes. Although they might be less well known than their regal Jersey counterpart, Guernsey potatoes have a wonderfully natural taste and texture. Oh, and don’t forget the outstanding carrots.

But it’s not all about commercially grown fruit and vegetables. Recently there has been a huge return to the garden, as people turn their back on imported products that may have been flown thousands of miles. Guernsey people now want to know where their fruit and vegetables come from, and where better than you own back garden!

It doesn’t stop there. Many islanders are rearing chickens, goats, pigs and even bees, amongst other things, and many people swap their produce to become almost self sufficient!  Excess produce is sold  outside properties on 'Hedge Veg'  stalls or at Farmer's Markets which are becoming more common and more popular.

Good food is also available for free in the islands. Watch out for the deliciously peppery Wild Rocket out on the coast, as well as Wild Fennel and a cornucopia of juicy berries. Just follow any local with a carrier bag.

There is one phenomenon that is pure, unadulterated Guernsey and – more than any other – sums up islanders’ approach to life. It’s nothing to do with politics, religion or philosophy. Rather, it’s all about vegetables and the way islanders love to buy and sell them from makeshift stalls at the side of the road. Welcome to the world of Hedge Veg.

Hit the islands’ country roads and you will soon spot it. The telltale signs are easy to detect - the car in front weaves around some hasty parking, a gaggle of locals are chatting on the verge next to some homespun ‘retail outlet’, fashioned from a table, crate or even driftwood. There will also be a hand written sign, promoting today’s offering. But what is most significant is that there will also be a small tin, box or even a milk churn – for shoppers to pay for their purchases. It all relies on honesty and it works. In an age of locks, security cameras and rising crime it’s reassuring to know that there is still somewhere where the people prefer to work on trust.

And there is certainly no shortage of stock. Anything from tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, carrots and potatoes to roses, carnations and freesias – even the odd spider crab - can be found. Aside from the occasional crustacean, much of it originates from commercially sized greenhouses, which are still commonplace, whilst the remainder is pulled from kitchen gardens. Whatever its origins, Hedge Veg is the modern equivalent of bartering surplus home-grown produce with your neighbours. In Guernsey, that means the whole island. Long may it continue!